Step into the heart of Burgundy with me as I explore the “Climats” or the vineyards and the cultural landscape of this French region. This is my third stay in Burgundy as part of my annual summer writer’s retreat made possible by Dr. Emma Palova and Dr. Adrien Chavent.
“Climats” in Burgundy present cultural landscape, a 2015 UNESCO world heritage site
Note: After my third visit to the wine region of Burgundy in France, I consider it to be my annual summer writer’s retreat amidst vineyards, exceptional gastronomy and the “Climats.”
By Emma Palova
Fixin, FR- On an early Sunday morning, I woke up to the ringing of the church bells and a local gentleman shouting at his dog, a lot louder than the dog’s barking.
From my studio, I heard the cars rolling down the narrow Rue Magnien that leads into the tiny wine village of Fixin. The walls around the estates magnify the sounds and funnel them into endless echoes.
Major street through Fixin
But, just before the light broke, I could hear the chirping of the birds in the mulberry tree. The mulberry tree is the only tree that grows between the bricks in the small…
Note: This is the second account of Tamela Spicer’s recent travels to Uruguay in South America.
By Tamela Spicer
EW Emma’s Writings
On my recent trip I had the pleasure of indulging in many of Montevideo’s finest pleasures, including a stunning Opera at Teatro Solis and a world-class ballet led by the infamous Julio Bocca from Buenos Aires. I also discovered something new, the wine road. Created in 2005, Los Caminos del Vino features a variety of small boutique vineyards along the southern region of Uruguay, many of them within 30 minutes of Montevideo. Wine making has been part of Uruguay for several decades, but it has only been in recent years that the wines have gained international attention.
For me there is something magical about vineyards. Of course, I enjoy the wine, but more than that, I love the peacefulness of miles of vines growing in the countryside. In Uruguay it doesn’t take long to find that countryside. More than 80 percent of the land in Uruguay is agricultural. The small number of cities populate the edges of the country, with large ranches filling the interior. In that space between the city and the vast ranches of the interior lie beautiful, peaceful vineyards.
Uruguay is gaining international attention primarily for Tannat wines. The iconic grape was brought from southern France in the 19th century and the rich soil with the ocean air provides for excellent growth in Uruguay. Most of the vineyards are small, family owned facilities, but the flavors are rich and bold. After an unplanned stop at the wine school where they provided an impromptu tour, we visited Bodega Artisana along Los Caminos del Vino. Artisana is actually owned by an American who visited Uruguay years ago and fell in love with the area. While the owner still lives in the United States part of the year, locals manage and operate the vineyards. They gave us a private tour and tasting. It was a wonderful way to spend an afternoon and of course, I brought home a few bottles.
Those few bottles that make the home don’t last, so the challenge becomes finding someone who sells your new favorite so you can restock. There are a variety of laws that govern distributors in the United States, and each state has their own rules. The other challenge is that not all vineyards produce enough wine to export. When I’m visiting a vineyard out of the country I always ask if they have a distributor in the states. Often times you can contact the distributor and they will be able to tell you if the wine is available in your area. Local wine shops are sometimes able to find a particular vintage, and of course the Internet is very helpful in tracking down a favorite bottle. Availability depends largely on geography. For example, due to the local wine industry, Michigan has strict laws on wine imports, particularly from foreign vineyards. The key in finding that favorite wine is just ask; or if all else fails, perhaps you need another vacation to return to that special vineyard.
Vineyards, beaches and the arts made for a wonderful, relaxing vacation. But it was the time spent with family and friends that made this trip to Uruguay special. Being able to enjoy Martin’s two weddings was a joy. In Uruguay only magistrates can legally conduct a wedding. So if a couple wants to marry in a church they must first have a civil ceremony performed by a magistrate. The first wedding was a small affair held at Adriana’s home on a Wednesday evening. Just under 100 guests were present as the bride and groom, along with several witnesses, signed the official marriage ledger and the magistrate announced them as husband and wife. The ceremony began about 7:30 pm and the party lasted well into the night until the police showed up around 2 am due to a noise complaint.
However, the couple exchanged rings at a church wedding on Saturday. Over 400 guests came to witness the ceremony that began around 9:30 pm. Unlike here in the states, in Uruguay there are no large bridal parties, only the parents stand up in witness of the church ceremony. Friends and siblings enjoyed the honor of signing the registry during the civil ceremony so at the church wedding they simply sit back and enjoy. And of course, the party.
The reception was fairly typical of what we might enjoy in the states. Held at a local country club, there were beautiful floral arrangements, a wonderful meal and plenty of champagne. Unlike in the U.S, there were no bridal party photos or cutting of the cake, but there was a special waltz for the bride and groom and the party lasted well into the night. Actually, all night long. We had breakfast around 5 am and we finally left the country club just after the sunrise around 5:30 am.
Even if you don’t have a wedding that would take you to Uruguay, you should go none the less. It is a beautiful country filled with warm, welcoming people. Whether it’s wine, beaches or ranches, Uruguay has a lot to offer. As for me, well I plan to return again soon. I’m currently working on plans to that will allow me to spend three or four months a year in Uruguay, a nice way to escape our Michigan winters. Maybe you’ll join me one day soon and I’ll give you a tour of my favorite vineyards.
About the cover photo: Vendange 2013 in Burgundy, France, inside the wine caves.